Home > bicycling, Mechanical > Getting rid of the compact Crank on my 2012 Cervelo P2 (Campagnolo Veloce Crank Installation)

Getting rid of the compact Crank on my 2012 Cervelo P2 (Campagnolo Veloce Crank Installation)

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Alright. So let’s get one thing straight. A compact crank may work for you, or even that guy in the back corner. And if there are even mild hills in your region by all means consider compact. But I’m not a fan and hills are few and far between in my neck of the woods. So when I bought my 2012 Cervelo P2 the compact crank had to go.

But what to replace it with?

I was having some success with eBay and at first was looking at some Rotor cranks and found one I loved and was winning right up to the last second almost at around $300, would have been a steal. But I haven’t mastered how to win when it gets competitive at the end and I lost out with 10 seconds to spare.

Anyways I decided to look for a new replacement. First off I don’t mind using any crank, I don’t need something that aligns with my gruppo per say and there are tons and tons of people who use “mis-matched” cranks with their derailleurs to much success and for me brand type itself wasn’t fixed.

There are four choices in my mind and I wanted to have a something that added some class to the frame and was reasonable in price (was looking at max $400). I looked at Shimano, SRAM, Campagnolo and FSA (since I had a megaexo BB that would be easiest). I also spent a lot of time on Jensen USA, Ribble, Chain Reaction Cycles and Nashbar sites.

Since ascetics is important Shimano was out Smile Beside from some of the low end stuff I don’t find the look works for me. I don’t know what it is but the crank arm seems to launch itself out of the chain ring and that doesn’t seem as integrated to my eye.

 

Central arm just not my style

 

I don’t mind the SRAM or FSA look. For a while SRAM Force or Rival was a possibility. For FSA there are a lot of options and the pricing is competitive.

But it was soon evident that I wanted to see if I could fit a Campagnolo crank (so maybe brand was important after all?). I have always liked Campagnolo and as somebody who has a Ducati in the garage and with an 80s Campy bike I wondered what the options were now some 20 years on since I bought some Campagnolo parts!

There are a lot of options, Veloce, Chorus, Record, Athena etc. I saw a Ribble TT bike that was equipped with a Veloce gruppo and the crank had a lot of good reviews. And it looked nice. I don’t find Campagnolo much on North American online stores, but there are lots on the UK sites and I have had fun with Ribble’s bike and gruppo builders in the past.  I was pleased to find that the crank and the needed Power Torque Bottom Bracket was just over $200 with shipping. I took the plunge, wiped out the VISA and bought it! It took about 20 days to deliver here in Canada but the snow was still high in the back yard so wasn’t that freaked out, but it seemed a bit long and I was getting impatient just as it showed up. Still at this price you have to be happy overall.

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http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Campagnolo-Veloce-Black-Power-Torque-10Spd-Chainset/CAMPCHAR894

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Crank in the box after delivery from Ribble

 

Installation Process

 

Step 1 – Remove old crank

I was a bit concerned about doing this. I have not worked on modern cranks before and I lot has changed over the years. I did find some general installation instructions online and with my iPad was able to have those handy.

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Finger smears show up great in iPad shots!

The first step is to remove the two retaining bolts on the left hand crank with a 5mm hex bolt. Remove the pedals first (I always seem to forget that).

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You can then loosen up the central bolt again with a 5mm hex bolt.

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After a while you can just use your finger to back the central out.

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Then the crank arm just pops off (at least it did for me)

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The left hand crank keeps the whole crank on so you can simply pop over to the other side and slide the right hand crank and chain rings off.

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Just for chuckles I did see if the new crank could fit but it was too wide to slide in.

Step 2- remove bottom bracket

This was one area where I had to pause and go buy a tool. I had my old bottom bracket tool from my mid 80s bikes and it seems like maybe it could work. But I could never really get any leverage.

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Close…but just could not get any leverage to loosen.

So I had to pick up the appropriate tool which I got at Mountain Equipment co-op in Ottawa. So a day or so later I was able to get back at it.

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Ahh..that’s better..but is this the right way to turn?

One problem I always seem to have is what way to turn these things. With carbon frames I want to absolutely make sure I get it right. And nicely the FSA bottom bracket has a nice graphic to show you that to tighten is counter-clockwise

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So..reversed the tool and turned the BB clockwise

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Turn the right side BB clockwise to loosen. It didn’t take too much leverage on my side to get it moving.  Then you can finish it off by hand.

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Going over to the other side to loosen you turn it counter-clockwise. It was a lot tighter and I reluctantly used a hammer to get it started, mild taps only!

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Then again loosen by hand and the whole BB pops out.

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And finally don’t lose any of the parts so put it into a bag somewhere!

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Step 3- Install the Campagnolo Veloce Crank

In the end taking off the old crank was pretty easy. I hope putting the new one on would be the same. According to Campagnolo “no special tools” are needed to install the Power Torque BB and the Veloce crank so I dived right in.

The crank came with some surprisingly brief instructions (in about 25 languages) but they were concise and made sense to me.

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The veloce crank, PT BB and single page of instructions to install it all

Starting with the left hand side and started to thread it in.

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Then was able to use the same tool as the FSA BB to get it tightened.

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Then I moved over to the right hand side. Now the Power Torque BB has this clip that seemed very important and it was hard to work out exactly how to install it. The pictures gave some idea but still wasn’t 100% sure. I decided I would cross that bridge when I got there.

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Again threaded it on by hand

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Then tightened it up.

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I thought that maybe I should put in the clip first, like below…But then the crank didn’t want to sit in properly. So I took it off and that was the right decision.

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Don’t do this!!!

Then I hit another problem. The front derailleur was too low (having been set up for the smaller FSA crank) and it wouldn’t get over it.

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So had to raise it which was very easy. I eyeballed it and hoped it would shift fine afterwards (which is did!)

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Raising up the front derailleur

Finally was able to slide the crank right in. Now had to insert the clip. I have not seen something like this before but it seems to provide a better snap into the crank and keeps it secure.

Snap it in to the top, it seems to go in pretty easy

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Then it can be a struggle but snap it into the bottom. If the crank isn’t in properly it will not snap in, but does also act as a extra fitting insurance.

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The crank on the left hand side is now protruding out

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There is a big warning to make sure you oil up the spindles so I did that.

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Then slid on the right hand crank. The central bolt is just silver and I looked for a cover but there wasn’t one, so this is one thing that seems odd for campy when they try hard to get everything right, but that wasn’t the worst of it.

They say there comes a time in any installation of a Campagnolo part that you say “WTF”. This was the moment for me. The bolt uses a 12 mm hex bolt. Go look at your tool box. Do you have a 12mm hex bolt? I don’t. I left the house and went to a number of hardware and car parts stores and NOBODY had a 12mm hex bolt. So I did something a bit different. I simply inserted a 10mm hex bolt and tried different other sizes until I had a tight fit.

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Then I tightened it and it worked fine, but not what I would like to have done but I wasn’t going to be stymied by a missing hex bolt.

After that I was all done. I tested it out on the stand and it seemed to shift well. I then put it on my turbo trainer to test it again, and again it seemed to shift well both on the front and in the back.

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Finally it was time to try it out on the roads and thanks to some nice weather was able to get in about 20km yesterday and it seems to work flawlessly. Will take a bit more time to be sure, but I am very pleased with the result. Below are a couple of shots out on the road.

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Categories: bicycling, Mechanical
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  1. March 26, 2012 at 7:20 pm
  2. June 19, 2012 at 8:16 pm

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